2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

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Kebabmonster
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2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby Kebabmonster » Sat Mar 21, 2020 6:56 pm

I've had the 2010 990 Superduke for almost 5 years now. We've had a love/hate relationship. I loved it at first, but for the last 3 years I've hated it, and after today, I now really hate it.

It uses oil. No surprise there, it seems a lot of them do. In Scotland in 2017 it used 700 ml in 800 miles. In Austria in 2018 it used 850 ml in 1000 miles. I thought this was excessive. Thoughts anyone?

For about 2 years now it's had starting issues. I used to have it on a trickle charger off and on (shared between 2 bikes), but now it's on it's own dedicated CTek charger. This time last year at MOT time, I asked the garage to put a new battery on it not knowing how old the battery actually was, might have eben been the original. They put a Leoch one on it (cheap crap imo). Long story short, it flattened the new battery in the 7 miles home from the garage. Charged it up, took it back, and the garage put a new one on it, but kept the bike for a few days to test it. That one went flat on a test ride by the mechanic. They put this down to 2 bad batteries. Put a third one on, it didn't go flat, so I brought the bike home.

Did a few day rides after that, and no problems in Scotland on a 5 day trip last August, the bike was put away after that and basically hasn't moved since. Tried to start it 2 weeks ago in readiness for this year's MOT test, one turn of the starter then stopped every time I turned the key. Bought a Yuasa battery last week and it fired straight away. Kept it on the charger until today. Fired no bother this morning to take it for the MOT test/service. Picked it up after the MOT test, and decided to take it for a little run to blow the cobwebs off it and myself really. Did about 25 miles in total, including about 3 stops at family's houses.

On one of the restarts, it fired but I got a Soft 32 and DAT 101 (I think they were the codes) on the dash and the clock reset. After the next restart, it fired, but the battery light stayed on for about 3 seconds after starting, then went off. Then about a mile from home, I noticed the FI light and the battery light were on, then I noticed the fuel light came on even tho I'd filled it up this morning. Then about 5 seconds later, the engine stopped, back wheel locked up (as it would), and I coasted to a stop with the clutch lever pulled in.

No ignition lights, no rev counter pre check, nothing. Had to phone my son to come out, and we started pushing it up the hill to get it home, I don't know anyone with a van. Thankfully a kind dude with a box van and a tail lift stopped halfway up the hill, and loaded us and the bike, and dropped us off at home. Massively grateful to him considering I've recently been diagnosed with coronary artery problems. I think that hill would have finished me off pushing it to the top even tho my son was doing the majority of the work...

Now I've put it back on the charger for about 3 hours. Tried the key in, still no ignition lights. I even put cables from the KTM battery to the battery of my DL1000 I have parked next to it, still nothing.

Installed TuneECU on to my current laptop to see if I could get any error codes (I put a map on the SD using TuneECU not long after I got the bike using my old laptop), but it's saying ECU is not responding. Not sure if this could be a driver issue though as Windows said the drivers I was trying to install from the download weren't as good as the current ones.

So, anyone have any ideas why everything is dead, and have I fried my ECU by riding with the FI, battery, and fuel lights on for about 5-10 seconds???

Man, I hate this bike :(

Andy.

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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby mojodog » Sat Mar 21, 2020 7:25 pm

Frustrating but not terminal. first you can find all the answers on this forum, trust me i did. You can have several problems at once and each one has to get solved. Your electric problem most likely is regulator/rectifier. Fried wiring down by your battery, greasy connectors get hot and melt. I eventually cleaned every connector,hard wired the regulator(no connector), replaced loose/worn out vacuum hoses, replaced cracked throttle body rubber sleeves, had a plugged spark drain hole that caused the plug to short when wet, replaced plugs, general maintenance, replaced throttle cables with tuneecu reset,throttle sync, 15 minute reset after every change. The bike is perfect now about 6000 miles since finishing the renew. '08 SDR

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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby superxsive » Sat Mar 21, 2020 7:32 pm

I had a similar issue but it would kind of charge. It turned out to be a loose negative battery clamp. I would also get a multimeter on the battery with the bike running. Red to positive and black to negative and meter set to 20V DC. Start and run the bike and check that the battery is getting sufficient voltage; should be around 13V and no more than 15V or you will roast the battery.

The regulator/rectifiers like to collect garbage and moisture in the connector. Check and clean that. Look for any signs of corrosion (white or green powder). Look for any loose wires in that area related to charging system. Our charging stuff is in the absolute worst location on the bike. Report your findings. Also maybe jiggle some wires with the multimeter hooked up to see if the readings change a lot on the multimeter.
2007 KTM Superduke 990 stock.
1977 Yamaha xs850 to 900cc cafe racer.

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No. 47
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby No. 47 » Sat Mar 21, 2020 7:38 pm

Don't hate the bike, it's likely to be a fairly simple issue - in order of likelihood:

1 - Check the earth cables for one of the terminal eyelets being broken free from the cable and sporadically making contact - don't just do a visual check, cut back the outer sleeve to be absolutely sure that the cable and connector are good,

2 - Check the reg/rec (see rebuild manual) and disconnect and clean all respective connectors - if faulty, or even if not apparently faulty, replace with one of these https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/cata ... +rectifier 'cos they can fail whilst riding due to vibration and/or overheating,

3 - Check generator output (see rebuild manual) and disconnect and clean respective connectors particularly the big brown one which may have partially melted internally.

Plenty of experience on here of exactly same symptoms with very simple solutions - search Soft 32 Dat 101 on here - unless your unlucky like me and experienced all of these plus the dreaded broken wire/poor connector/failed minor component in wiring loom that are almost impossible to trace.

Pint of Guinness says it's a simple fix.
'08 ex-Battle race KTM Superduke 990 R No.47
'08 OE KTM Superduke 990 R
'01 Ducati 996S

Kebabmonster
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby Kebabmonster » Sat Mar 21, 2020 9:35 pm

Thanks for your replies, I appreciate them all.

I'll go through as many things you mentioned as my limited knowledge will allow tomorrow. The ironic thing is my dad was an auto electrician, so I never got involved when I had electrical issues (mainly on my cars, only been biking 10 years) as he would normally sort them, but he's no longer here, so I'm now stranded for fixing problems myself.

I have a pdf repair manual for the bike on my laptop, time to get scrutinising it to find out about earth cables etc, and I'll get cleaning connectors. I did a search before I posted (honestly, I did :) ) and saw R/R mentioned on a few threads with starting issues, and a pal of mine also said the same (never had a KTM but had bikes for a few years of different ages). I'll go price one up in the UK now.

Forgot to say and no idea if it's relevant, but the headlight still comes on when I turn the key, but nothing on the dash.

Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted as I go, but I'm definitely not talking to the SD at the minute :D

Andy.

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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby DribbleDuke » Sat Mar 21, 2020 10:47 pm

The ongoing electrical issues are exactly that, ongoing. The trouble with the bike is that it is so freaked good when it is good that it causes you to go through relentless frustration when it is not. If it were a pile of shite bike you would have ridded of it a long time ago. I too think that a simple recheck and and tightening is in order and a multimeter used in its most primitive functions will tell you all you need to know. There is a huge saving grace to this debacle, you have a V-Strom that will quickly make you forget your problems and take you anywhere anytime you choose. Best advice hang onto the DL1000.

I just sold my fourth V-Strom and now fingers crossed will not need another for at least ????
I'm BLUE

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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby Kebabmonster » Sun Mar 22, 2020 9:13 am

In the cold light of the next day after yesterday's fun and games :roll: DribbleDuke, you're exactly right. When the SD is working, it's a hoot to ride as we all know, but like anything not working, a proper pain to be around. And I doubt I'll ever get rid of the DL1000 (mine's the Kawasaki KLV version, 2005) cos it's had it's troubles in the 6 and half years I've had it (none as bad as the SD so far mind), some of these my doing (an off in Scotland last year), but it's like an old slipper to me now, me and it just fit together great. A lot of people see the Strom as dull, I love mine, and a lot of people who have had them regret selling them a few months down the line. I've fancied a Multistrada for a while now without being able to afford one, but even if I got one, the KLV wouldn't be getting chopped in for it.

So, a small update (and a bit of an embarrassment if I'm honest). Just before bed last night, I had a last wander into the garage with a couple of things to go over or they'd eat into my brain when trying to go to sleep if I didn't do them. Tested the battery and it was 12.75 volts, checked the no.1 and no. 3 fuses (ignition, and horn/brake light/instrument cluster), both fine. Then I gave the bike just a general look over, and that's when I saw it. I thought "That killswitch doesn't look right". Sure enough, it had been flicked off, probably in the manhandling of getting the bike on and off the van. FFS!!! :oops: :oops: :oops: Flicked it on, turned the key, and the cluster was like a Christmas tree :roll: I also wanted to test to see if there's a drain on the system which I couldn't do last night due to lack of space. I'll wheel the bike out the garage today to do this and start going over connections etc

As it was late, I didn't try to fire it up, that'll be this morning when I get myself sorted, but in my rage yesterday, I've forgotten about the most obvious thing a bike has for not starting. What an idiot. I was happy but also raging (again) :lol: :lol: :lol:

Obviously, the killswitch wasn't the reason the dash lit up like a Christmas tree while I was riding it, so even though it might now start now and the battery being on the charger overnight, the initial problem will still be there. After what you guys have said, and doing a bit more reading of threads after searches (on here and other KTM forums), I think it's a given that I should change the regulator rectifier. So I did a bit of pricing. Quite a wild price swing between what you can get. These are the choices:

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/ ... 0011034100 I assume this is the OEM one, £143.63 :shock:

https://www.mymotoparts.co.uk/p/regulat ... sh54-each/ £105

https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/types/ ... a-akm6001/ £69 - none OEM, but price getting better

https://awmotorcycleparts.co.uk/regulat ... 0011034100 £64 but a poor webpage

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Regulator-Re ... Sw3AFcyPrR £22 ebay

And I've read about Mosfet R/R's, and found one here:

https://www.carmoelectronics.co.uk/inde ... 8b4f21b7fc £150 :shock: :shock:

I'm tempted to just go for the ebay one to see if the problem goes away. If it does, great, if not £22 wasted isn't going to kill me. I've no idea how long I'll be keeping the SD, but I know it's not going to be a keeper like the KLV, so if I could get maybe 2 years trouble free, that might be long enough. Don't want to pay £150 for the Mosfet one just for a short time, even though I've read they're the one to have. But I also know, buy cheap buy twice comes into it, so my head's busting about it :evil: Any views on this are much appreciated.

So, that's where I'm at up to now. Once I get myself out of bed I'll give it a go and see if it starts, go over the bike checking stuff, and later today, order the new R/R whichever has been decided. Still feel like hitting myself over the head about the killswitch tho :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks.

Andy

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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby Kebabmonster » Sun Mar 22, 2020 12:46 pm

More developments.

Went to start the bike, unplugged the charger, turned the key, and it fired first time. Magic.

I disconnected the negative battery terminal, set the multimeter to (a few different) amps settings and checked to see how much drain I was getting. On the 200Ma setting it was 0.2, which when looking online I believe is 2 milliamps which I believe is within tolerances for being normal? Can anyone confirm this, both that 0.2 on that setting is 2 milliamps, and that this is classed as normal?

Then went to checking a few things, and decided if I was going to get a new regulator rectifier, I'd loosen it off in preparation for fitting the new one. You have to bear in mind, I'm (a) no good with electrics as previously mentioned, and (b) this is the first time I've ever had anything to do with a regulator rectifier. Got the 2 bolts out, cut a couple of cable ties and started tracing the cables to see what else will need disconnected, thinking I'd get the contact cleaner out and clean up the connectors on the wiring loom ready for the new one. One cable was a bit of a sod to trace, and I eventually saw it went inside the battery box along the side of the battery. Decided to remove the battery. This cable with an eye connector on and 2 green wires wasn't actually connected to anything, and came out when the battery was removed. Here's a pic, it's the bottom of these 2:

ImageR-R Earth lead KTM

I believe this is a ground wire and should be connected somewhere? If it is and it should, where does it connect to? Will it be the battery, or an earth point on the bike somewhere (I have no idea where this earth point is btw :oops: ) Sorry for being a bit dumb in all of this, but like I said, I'm a real novice at all of this. The repair manual has it going to the battery from what I can read in this wiring diagram, but thought it best to check with you knowledgeable folk first:

ImageKTM R-R Wiring Diagram

And if this should be connected to the battery, I assume it not being connected has been at least part of my problem? Now when I swapped the battery last week, I reconnected any cables that were attached to the old battery, but I cannot be sure that this one was missed when I did it. I doubt I could have did the 5 day trip to Scotland without some sort of issue showing up, so maybe I have missed it...

If it is to be connected, I'll hold off getting a new RR until I reconnect the existing one and test what the bike is like in case it's just been this cable not being connected that's shafted me.

Sorry for being long winded, but I'm just wanting to make sure I don't screw anything up.

On a side note, I may have also found why it uses so much oil which I'll maybe go into later...

Thanks,

Andy

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DribbleDuke
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby DribbleDuke » Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:01 pm

#47 will be bi shortly and I suggest you follow his advice. I have witnessed all of the symptoms you have related here. I would not disclude new clocks as another area that may need to be looked into. I guess I should say new instrument cluster. I myself would not buy the Mosfet. The green wire sure looks to go to the ground terminal. There was talk on here that replacement regulators-rectifiers had two grounds and it seams that maybe your r-r has already been replaced. Did you buy this bike new?
We did not get the KLV in the states and the friendly agreement between Suzuki and Kawasaki ended here after just one year, 2003.
I had electrical issues on one of my DL1000s and it came down to realigning and fastening the magnets onto the rotor.
What is the charging voltage when the bike is running at 2000 rpm?
You stated it is the 2010 model? Is it the camoflauge paint scheme?
I wish I could give good advice but unfortunately the only advice is that there is nothing on the SD that money won't fix.
I'm BLUE

Kebabmonster
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby Kebabmonster » Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:55 pm

I didn't buy the bike new, it was around 5 years old when I got it. As you can tell from my posts, I've definitely never changed the RR but who's to say if the PO had?

I haven't yet checked the charging when running. As soon as I got it fired this morning I shut it off and started doing the exploring. Then out came the battery etc, and it's still in bits until I find out where that eye connector goes. Once this is sorted I'll put it all back together and post my results. There's definitely 2 green wires in the sheathing.

Mine is the matt black/gloss white version, here it is on the trip to Austria/Switzerland in September 2018:

Image

And here's the KLV in Scotland last year inc when I had a small spill (all fixed now):

Image

Image

Everyone's advice is great mate, I appreciate anyone taking time to try to help me out, thanks.

Andy

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No. 47
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby No. 47 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 6:16 pm

I have never been, and am now too old to be, bi................................................. :D

That is probably the twin cabled earth from the OE reg/rec - check by following it back - my battery box area wiring is, er, somewhat customised, not least due to having added stub cables from the battery terminals to avoid having to access the battery box to disconnect the battery - trust me, once you have had to dis- and re-mount the electrics in front of the battery box a few times, you'll do the same.

From the respective wiring diagrams and memory, the positive battery terminal should have one cable connection to the starter relay, the negative battery terminal should have an earth/ground cable connection to the rhs of the frame and the reg/rec cable should also be connected to the negative terminal but I am no expert in electrics, hate them as much as you probably do at the moment and it has been such a long time since I had to battle with the electrics that I cannot be absolutely certain - someone else will no doubt chime in, no doubt.
'08 ex-Battle race KTM Superduke 990 R No.47
'08 OE KTM Superduke 990 R
'01 Ducati 996S

Kebabmonster
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby Kebabmonster » Sun Mar 22, 2020 6:28 pm

Thanks No.47, what you say is what the PDF repair manual I have says, but I just wanted to check on here before I did it.

I'll give it a whirl tomorrow as the light is fading here now.

Cheers,

Andy

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nampus
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby nampus » Wed Mar 25, 2020 10:07 am

That double green goes on the negative terminal of the battery as said before.

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RichUK
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby RichUK » Wed Mar 25, 2020 10:24 am

Hi Kebabmonster

I have the same colour SD990 and it's been a right git to me, but I still love it. Fingers crossed mine is now all fixed but it forced me to do things I hoped I'd never have too (head gasket). I plan to take mine to the Alps some day, maybe next year if we're allowed out by then. My plan would be to van it down there as I have ridden to Italy once (on a Vstrom 650) and it takes a lot of time out of your break to do whilst avoiding M/ways.
In the end the power differential between the SD and DL650 was too great so I sold the 650 but replaced it with an 1190 Adv, which is ACE!

I had thought that one day I will upgrade the 990 to the 1290 but tbh I'm not so sure now. I like the noise and feel of the 990 too much, the throttle is instant, the 1190 feels delayed in comparison, and I think the 1290's sound a little dull, as does my 1190 when compared to my 990, even though they both have decat pipes and straight through type silencers.

Anyway, back to your questions.

0.2 on the 200mA range is 0.2mA which is low. It's the leakage current back flowing through the rectifier and is totally normal.

Kebabmonster
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Re: 2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

Postby Kebabmonster » Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:11 am

nampus wrote:That double green goes on the negative terminal of the battery as said before.


Thanks Nampus.

I've put it all back together now. Fired straight up, and it's charging at 14.65 volts at 2000 rpm. I believe this is about right? Due to the UK being in lockdown I cannot try it on a run, maybe one day we'll be allowed out, but at the minute it's for the greater good, so I'm fine with that.

RichUK, yeah, they can be very annoying, but are a riot when they're working. As far as the Alps goes, you should look into doing what we did last time we went, overnight train from Dusseldorf to Innsbruck. The first time we went to Austria (I was on the KLV then), we got the ferry from Hull to Zebrugge, then rode through Belgium, Luxembourg, France, overnight stop in Seebach in the German Black Forest, then down to Landeck in Austria. Same on the way back. Very tiring, and not much fun (39 degrees on the way there). Last time we went one of the lads mentioned the train. Soooo much easier. Ferry from Newcastle (I live 15 miles away from the ferry terminal) to Amsterdam, 4 hours to Dusseldorf (hung over :lol: :lol: :lol: ), had to hang around all day at the train terminal tho, load the bikes on, into a 6 bunk cabin (like sardines once all the gear was in there), wake up and you're almost in Innsbruck. Worth looking into if you are planning a trip. I think this is what we used: https://www.nightjet.com/en/angebote/automotorrad

Bike loaded on:

ImageSDC10628

And this is the full set up, cars and bikes loaded on:

ImageSDC10626

Andy


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